Yes, BIN shellac based primer is my go-to primer. Now the latex paint gets scratched easily and peels off. I don’t actually know what the finish is, all it says on the Next website is ‘ivory painted finish’. I recently bought an antique dinning room table that was painted white. Any help would be great. Hi I love your site! All surfaces are rough. Even if they aren’t perfect, they’ll be better than what we have now. My husband is planning on building file cabinets for our office, and we can also use this sprayer for them. They have that smooth wood imitation finish, like a lamin ate I guess?. So the layers go from top to bottom, black spray paint, green spray paint and then the original wood veneer. I have 2 questions if you can help with I would appreciate it so much! In your situation, “varnish” is simply oil and resin, which doesn’t present a conflict with an oil based paint. That’s why the brushes can’t be cleaned with water. Hell of a durable finish, but as I’ve learned, the more durable the finish, the faker it looks. Note that Latex paint does not contain latex from the rubber plant. I used oil based paint on my coffee table, based on a recommendation. Mohawk sells it here. Thank you! 320 grit is good stuff. The cabinets are not real wood. Yeah, it’s more trouble to clean up and yeah, it’s more expensive but the result is worth every moment and penny spent. Appreciate it. What is milk paint? Should I just paint the distressed parts and then one more coat to make it an even color (since I won’t be able to find an exact color match) or what would you recommend? Chalk paint is ready to go pretty quickly, but when you are working with oil paint, you need to let it sit at least 1 week, but if you’ve got the time, I’d give it two or even three. All are different colors of stain – light, medium and dark. It’s just not worth skipping, all to find out 6 months later that your paint is failing. I’m worried about doing this project in the house and the smell of the oil paint. How many coats are on it? I’ve already purchased MinWax Polyacrylic clear top coat so would like to stick with that, using necessary procedure to achieve best results. That said, your idea of “Satin” may be a 20 sheen, but the BM paint in “Satin” is really rated at 40-50 which is way different from what you are expecting. Both acrylic and latex paints are made with acrylic … If I do, what is the most highly suggested product? When paint dries, you can touch or re-coat it. This paint has its drawbacks too. I remember the old saying “If you’ve got time to do it twice, you’ve got time to do it right the first time”. It penetrates wood, becomes one with other finishes, and covers shellac and old paint. Odor and risk difference. We want to go with a white contemporary look, new back splash and counters. I would reduce the oil paint using either high quality paint thinner, or Naptha(evaporates more quickly). Ended up turning out great. Spray paint is easier to apply on furniture with spindles, small pieces, or intricate nooks and crannies. The reason is because if the paint is not cured, when you sand it, it will behave like rubber and you won’t achieve a smooth,  feathered edge. If we get a primer and oil based paint how do we apply it?? Does the was dry hard enough not to smear? Should I use Sherwin Williams Pro Classic oil based enamel on both these pieces, or is it ok to use the latex Pro Classic on the cabinet? When using latex paints, water can be used to rinse brushes and for general clean up. (in the finishing business, that’s called a “Schedule”) Good job! What sort of paint and method should I use? Oil paint becomes a part of the wood. I just painted a mid century modern dresser in high gloss white rustoleum oil based enamel. I will do everything you say….except the spraying part. Once again, thank you for your help. However, I will tell you that the Minwax is an oil based product, and you cannot use a water based product over top of it. Fortunately I found your website before I started painting with a satin latex. The second piece that I am considering is my bathroom cabinet from IKEA=cheap cabinet. Sanded it and applied the first coat of oil base paint is. Why did you use black Minwax? 2. I sanded, primed with water based primer and painted with oil based spray paint. You can spray any coating you want using a sprayer but the sprayer has to be set up correctly. I am planning to refinish my kitchen table and chairs and would like to distress them. Oil paint becomes a part of the wood. I want to paint some old furniture white. Depends on what type of paint was used. Hi Mike, Since the current finish is in very good shape, do you think I would still be well-served to use the TSP the hardware store sold me, or some gradation of sandpaper, or steel wool, or Nothing AT All, since it is the “forgiving” oil base? My question is, do you think it will hold up to everyday use? Not to say that you are doing it wrong, because I’m not there, but I thought it was fair to mention that doing a good finishing job is not easy. Then, you can increase the sheen using steel wool if need be. The acrylic paint … Google search “home made spray booth” and have a look. Where latex paint sort of ‘bonds’ to the wood, oil based paint soaks into it. Acrylic paint on the other hand contains chemical compounds that make it to be more flexible than latex paint. Don’t have a sprayer or the skill set to use one, I’m afraid, so I guess I’ll stick with my faithful brush. Most primers are only able to come in gray as the darkest color. I did sand alot . Remember – If you’ve got time to do it twice, there’s time to do it right, the first time. I can’t say I’ve ever had that problem, but then again, I use a sprayer, and not a roller or brush. Thank you for all the great tips! No need to seal oil based paint. I want to use oil, but that’s adding a lot to the cost since I still have enough latex to do the job…but I’m worried about the yellowing that everyone says oil does after a couple years. Would like to paint it. We typically use Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic Enamel. Would I need 2 coats of primer? It’s not surprise at this point – I’m a huge fan of oil paint. Joann – outdoor furniture requires a different approach. Disclosure: BobVila.com participates in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for publishers to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. Because it naturally adheres well to matte and glossy surfaces, there’s usually no need for sanding or priming beforehand. Thanks! After that, paste wax would work quite well – just remember that the more you buff, the shinier it gets. 1. That said, I don’t know how durable the varnish you’ve selected is. Can I use oil paint directly over it or do I need to remove the latex paint first? It also dries faster than oil paint, in one to three hours, so you can quickly put the furniture to use. Chalk paint is about as durable as latex paint. I just wanted to say thank you so much for all of this information, and for the great questions from everyone on this site. (but it smells terrible)Enjoy! You will at the minimum have to clean the wax off, and I recommend scuffing and priming – always a good idea. I would of course prefer to not strip and then sand. It came out too shiny. . The only absolute 100% fail-safe bet is BIN pigmented shellac. I can’t wait to start my projects after reading your blog… Thanks for the tips. If the existing finish is peeling, it will continue to peel, so there’s not point to add coatings on top of it. Thank you! I guess I’d go with a high end brush. Spoke with you on January 5, 2016 advising you that I had problems with posting my questions on your site. HELP!! I’m assuming you did that so that when you distressed the white, you would see the black color. Find out what milk paint is, and which is the best to use for your next project. That’s a very rough, superficial comparison, but accurate. It didn’t work out. From other diyers, I’ve read that they don’t finish the furniture with a sealer of any kind. However … just to be totally sure before I mess up … Poly and wax are two completely different things. While the fabric is still damp, apply the first coat of paint. I have one of these, and it’s the only sprayer I use when I paint. Jeannnette – I think you’ll find that in this industry(and most others), the word “best” is relative. After reading all your comments I decided to switch to oil enamel paint, but not sure if I need to now strip off the primer and re-prime. From what I have read – I need to clean it with mineral spirits, scuff it up with 120 sandpaper, use the oil based BIN primer and then paint. Then we put polyacrylic on it it showed roller marks!! Yes Kelli – if you are using traditional oil paints, they should go over anything. What brand poly? There’s no rubber latex in paint with the name. I could do that, then scuff with 180g sandpaper. Thank you so much for your help! Flat or semi-satin? I have used small foam rollers in the past with latex and had good results. While acrylic paint will generally last longer than latex paint, latex paint is more frequently used for painting houses, while acrylic paints are used for art projects. I used a oil based primer and Sherwin Williams oil based paint. 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